Daisuke Obana recently went to London and decided to run by all of the Beetlejuice movie poster shirt in addition I really love this city’s iconic fashion spots, from Savile Row to Worlds End to Portobello Road. “It was really a tourist trip,” he said with a laugh. Still, the designer found fresh inspiration in those staid signposts. Though the idea of reworked British classics has been done to death, Obama executed his version precisely enough that it still came through clearly as N.Hoolywood. A spare presentation unfolded at the BMCC Tribeca Performing Arts Center, a shoebox theater that was left pitch black, save for four central spotlights. To the sounds of Beethoven, models walked out one by one and stood briefly before the audience, a somewhat performative show that referenced the installations Obana first created when he started, 18 seasons ago. Given the twist on British fashion, one saw all the usual tropes: trench coats and schoolboy shorts and pinstripe suits, as well as a punky red plaid, which Obama had pulled from Undercover designer Jun Takahashi’s archive. (A special tag read “Rebel Print by Undercover.”) Obama also created a graphic of pharmaceutical pills, which could have read as a tired reference to punk drug culture, but it actually came from an oddly pleasing spam email that reminded Obana of English artist Damien Hirst’s 1992 “Pharmacy” installation and helped make it his own. Federico Curradi is finding his groove at Rochas. This annoyingly standing-format show (how to type?) was packed full of engaging all-organic garments, soft and flowing, and bohemian. Curradi said he’s trying to make an artist’s wardrobe and who doesn’t want to look like an “artist,” right? Since decamping to Paris from Florence, he’s tried to suffuse himself in Frenchness, and for this collection consulted Ed van der Elsken’s Love on the Left Bank and Helena Janeczek’s The Girl With the Leica what a story with which to conjure atmospheric touches to his garments. Inspired by Gerda Taro’s bravery and resolve (if you don’t know it, please Google her story; it’s amazing), he incorporated soft embroidery detailing on weathered military-uniform-inspired trenches and shirting in silk and cotton. Not intentionally, but back when Nylon was a fashionable material for swimwear, I’ve deliberately bought one a size or two too small (since they used to stretch very well!), forgetting that Nylon also becomes a LOT more translucent when wet. Wore that number on a local beach, and had a mortifying experience after a swim. Suffice to say relatives told me that I may as well have been completely naked – so that was the last time that item was worn.
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