When the God Knew I Needed A Best Friend So He Gave Me My Grandson Shirt moreover I will buy this Black Lives Matter movement swept across the United States earlier this year, Stella Jean watched from Italy and determined to make a stand of her own. As the only designer of color on the official Milan Fashion Week calendar, she declared that she would not show on the schedule for spring 2021—and challenged Milan’s Camera Della Moda to make real progress. Her letter to the organization was coauthored by the American designer Edward Buchanan, who was recruited as design director of Bottega Veneta in 1995 and has lived and worked in Italy ever since. Today’s episode of Good Morning Vogue captures the Italian fashion system at a moment of change, as told by the leading forces in that change. We meet Jean and Buchanan as they consult on Milan Fashion Week’s first-ever group show of emerging Black Italian designers, a showcase that was added to the calendar as a direct consequence of their call for reform. Alongside them is the talent spotter Michelle Ngonmo, who founded Afro Fashion Week Milan here five years ago as a platform for designers of color, who had until now never been invited to participate in the Italian fashion’s tentpole event. Another commentator is Jordan Anderson, a journalist who emigrated from Jamaica to Italy and finds himself confronting forms of everyday racism that have a uniquely Italian flavor.
Now, the God Knew I Needed A Best Friend So He Gave Me My Grandson Shirt moreover I will buy this spring 2021 collections are coming to a slow conclusion (many big names postponed until mid-October and even November). In this WFH season we missed the connections made in the front rows, the shared electricity of a crowd turned on by witnessing something genuinely new, and the physical pleasure of seeing clothes in motion without the filter of a computer screen. But for everything that was lost, there were also gains: long Zoom conversations with designers, not least of all. And there were all sorts of learnings about alternatives to the runway. Some brands took their clothes to the street, staging live fashion shows amid the everyday goings-on of New York’s South Street Seaport (Eckhaus Latta) or filming a music video in Paris’s nighttime streets (Balenciaga). Seeing clothes in those IRL situations felt incredibly vital to Vogue’s editors. “The things that were most resonant were the designers who took their clothes and put them out in the real world,” says my colleague Mark Holgate.